Walk on the wild side proves itself a worthy trip of a lifetime

Article in the Canadian paper, THE GLOBE AND MA I L on SATURDAY, J U LY 1 7, 2010

Walk on the wild side proves itself a worthy trip of a lifetime

We rolled just into Simbavati River Lodge just in time for the afternoon game drive. Quickly dropping our bags, we hopped aboard an awaiting Land Rover, joining guests from Australia and the U.S. seated in rows in the back of the open-air vehicle. Our guide, a 30-somethingyear- old South African conservationist named Adam, took us on an exhilarating and informative ride along bumpy dirt roads, sandy river washes and occasionally directly through the bush. From his perch on the front bumper, our tracker Daniel interpreted animal footprints in the dry earth, skilfully contributing to the quest.
Some creatures, like the spotted leopards, were so well camouflaged that even when Daniel pointed at them, our novice posse – with necks craned and cameras at the ready – was still challenged to see the beasts. As we approached the white lion mother and her cubs nestled in the tall grass, Adam cut the motor, coasting us to a stop no more than eight feet from the big cats; we were all awestruck. We had been told to stay hush and seated. And no one made a peep, save for the clicks of camera shutters and an occasional sigh of wonderment.
Later, with the sun setting, we paused for a break – beer, wine and a snack served on the Rover’s hood. Adam explained that like many of the region’s animals, the lions blithely accepted game drives as part of their environment. Should someone stand or get out of a vehicle, it would be a different story. Point noted. Back at the lodge that evening, we feasted around a roaring fire – steaks and chicken skewers with mashed celeriac, salad and soups served camp-style.
At bedtime, we were escorted to our hut and respectfully asked to remain there until morning. Our lodging was, after all, smack in the bush. There are no fences. Wild animals – like an elephant and leopard that passed through camp during our stay – roam freely. Simbavati’s combination of creature comforts and integration with nature lent a spiritual dimension to the experience.
Each morning, we were awakened at 5:30 for the day’s first game drive, which we started out wrapped in thick blankets to keep warm until the sun was high. About midday we returned for brunch, spending the next several hours at the lodge, nothing but the peaceful buzz and stirrings of the African bush in the air. We napped, read books and lingered on the lodge’s large deck overlooking the lazy Simbavati River – watching the hippos bob, catching glimpses of raucous baboons and playing with the lodge’s affable squirrel, Afal.
Following a hearty lunch, we ventured out for an afternoon game drive. While the hunt requires patience – there are no guarantees you will find the animals you seek – we were blessed with many extraordinary close encounters, among them massive elephants munching on trees and a two-tonne rhino silently grazing.
The experience was extraordinary, breathtaking – leaving a slight heaviness in our hearts when it was time to say goodbye.